Monday, November 15, 2010

Even More Monkey Business!

It’s probably pretty apparent by now that I have a love of primates that’s bordering on the obsessional.

My sole reason for coming back to Malaysia was to see the Orang-utans in Borneo because I’d missed out on seeing them two years ago.

The removal of the ‘back fat’ was something I’d been keen on getting done, but if I’d already seen the orangs I wouldn’t have had the op here I don’t think. It was a case ‘well if I am gonna go see the monkeys, I may as well get that skin removed too’ rather than the other way around!

Anyway, I got my Orang-utan fix but you know me, there’s no such thing as too many monkeys, so my trip last Thursday to Kuala Selangor was a real high spot in my stay.


I did this outing two years ago, and while it’s sold as a trip to see the fireflies, it was the Silver Leaf Monkeys that made it special. I had a huge fear of boats and I’d had a massive body lift so last time I had the perfect excuse not to do the boat part. I just sat on the jetty nattering with another woman who was scared of drowning in a muddy river in the pitch darkness.

This time I had no such excuse but was curious as to whether I’d actually get in the boat, but that was for later. First it was time to get on the bus.

There were six of us on this outing, all of whom had had some kind of ‘work’ done. The drive out of the city is fascinating as glass and concrete high-rises melt away to shanty suburbs, then country where nothing but palm trees are growing to provide the relentless market for the palm oil.

It was a bit like a school outing, with laughter and our driver Richard, singing songs with us. Ninety minutes or so later we were at the lighthouse/lookout area where the monkeys congregate.

I was straight out of the bus and off to buy my monkey food. I loaded up, and walked about three steps before I was full of monkeys! They were leaping onto my back and shoulders, my head, everywhere! I was in heaven. I was talking away to them like they understood me, and of course there’s a part of me that believes they actually do.


I bought more beans, and bananas, and sweet potato so they got a very balanced meal. There were other monkeys there who have reddish-fur and it looks like they’re wearing blue eyeshadow. The adults are quite stocky and they look like they could take the Silver Leafs in a fight but there’s more Silver Leafs than there are “eyeshadow” monkeys so they kinda co-exist. I really loved being here with them. I don’t think I could ever tire of this experience, maybe I’d get bored after a year or two, who knows?


Sadly, nobody else shares my obsession so after an hour or so it was back on the bus to the river’s edge for dinner. It was the same restaurant we went to last time but blimey the area around it has been developed! There was just a few shacks and the restaurant before, now it’s a whole village with shops and stuff. The food was awesome, prawns, chicken, crab, rice, greens, fish all delicious.

After dinner it was dark enough, so we drove to the Firefly dock. We parked up and Richard said to leave our bags in the bus, just take cameras. How amazing to be able to leave your bags in the car and no fear of being robbed. I expect that will come, there’s bag snatching going on in KL now so I guess it’s just a matter of time before this practice is stopped. In the distance there was a make-shift mosque for the Muslim workers and we could hear them praying, it sounds so wonderful and adds to the atmosphere of this place.

Once we were life-jacketed up, it was do or die. Even walking right up to the end of the dock I wasn’t sure, but I did it! I was terrified as I climbed into the boat, but determined to do it, and off we went.

Eventually I relaxed enough to let go of the side of the boat with my death grip. I looked around me, we were knee deep in fireflies! It’s a pretty amazing show, the trees light up like they have thousands of fairy lights on them, and added to that we had lightening going off in the distance. It was like a Pink Floyd gig. The gondolier picked a firefly off the tree for us to hold in our hands, amazing. I was expecting a dull glow but they properly light up. Their bodies look like they have a tiny filament in them just like in a Christmas tree light.

We were on the boat for about 30 minutes and I felt like I was re-enacting the scene in Apocalypse Now where they go up the Mekong in search of Col Kurtz. Exciting but draining as hell for me. I have to say it was a massive relief to get off the boat and take off the lifejacket. It was only about 8.30 but I was spent.

Another challenge met, another fear faced. Result.

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5 Comments:

Blogger Unknown said...

Sounds like you are having a fabulous time - any pics during the fireflies part?

Loving reading about all this!
x

11:37 am  
Blogger Fiona M Chapelle said...

I was always entranced by fire-flies. I think it is great that you are facing various ears and apprehensions and going for it. I have read these in a fairly random order by the way, so Soz to confuse you. Very curious about the whole surgery tourism as well....I want the low down...were you much heavier? *Dayum* I want to know it all, monkeys, surgery, cost, Las Vegas nightmares....every last detail. Make certain you tweet me when you post any more. Oh and I want scars....when is the surgery?

Juzsayin' Obvs

4:47 pm  
Blogger Jennifer Perry said...

Gorgeous pictures. The precious primates and the scenery!
Love your stories woven through the telling of the journey.

8:05 am  
Blogger JoJo Smith said...

Fiona, the surgery was three weeks ago, that was the final operation to remove all the skin from the 10 stones I lost 4 and a half years ago. If you want gruesome pics of scars, before & after etc, etc you need to delve back into my archives, its all there!

2:11 pm  
Blogger JoJo Smith said...

Hey JP I'm really glad you're enjoying the blog, I'm getting such pleasure from writing it.

2:12 pm  

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